Per Harrtoft is part way through the adventure of a lifetime, cruising his Grandezza 40 flybridge from the east coast of Sweden to the remote Lofoten Islands in the far north of Norway
We managed to cover the 1400nm from Karlskrona to the Lofoten Islands in under a month, pushing through whenever the weather allowed. However, it took a toll. The supercharger drive belts on my Volvo D6s, fitted to the Grandezza 40 Fly Deamare, wore out despite being new this year. After reaching Röst a week ago, we diverted to Svolvaer for repairs.
Yesterday, while waiting for new drive belts, my crewmate Jörgen and I rented a car to explore the island in pouring rain. Today, the sun is out, and after a successful sea trial, we took the boat out for a fishing trip, each catching a good-sized cod.
With renewed confidence, we headed north between the islands, sheltered from incoming winds. We enjoyed calm waters, especially in Öyhellsundet. Just before Trollfjorden, another hissing sound came from the engine – the compressor drive belts had broken again after only an hour of use.
This far north the mountains are capped with snow all summer long. Photo: Per Harrtoft
Unable to get immediate help in Svolvaer, we booked into the Volvo dealership in Harstad. Knowing we could continue without the superchargers, we carried on, taking in the breathtaking beauty of Trollfjorden. We drifted in awe, surrounded by the towering landscape, with only a few tour boats for company.
We continued north, pushing through the calm waters. Near Hinnöya, we had to slow for a shallow fairway. After a long day, covering 96nm, we finally arrived in Harstad and moored at a marine workshop. The mechanic confirmed our issue was common but unresolved by Volvo. We decided to carry on and get it fixed back in Sweden.
We spent a quiet day in Harstad, doing laundry, exploring the town, and grilling our catch. Tomorrow is Midsummer’s Eve, but here in Norway, it’s business as usual. At least the sun is shining, and our spirits are high.
Berthed in Bjarkoya, the northernmost point of their epic Norwegian adventure. Photo: Per Harrtoft
Harstad to Nergårdsviken
The next day, we set off from Harstad, taking advantage of calm seas. An hour later, we reached Bjarköya and its stunning harbour, framed by mountains. Although tempted to continue north, this was as far as we planned to go.
I launched the drone to capture the landscape but had a scare when the screen went blank, and the drone almost crash-landed in the sea. Thankfully, the signal returned in time.
Article continues below…
Lofoten or bust: A motor boater’s adventure to the far north continues
Lofoten or Bust: Taking a motor yacht to the far north of Norway
In the afternoon, we cycled around the bay and across to Bird Mountain, enjoying a peaceful picnic while watching thousands of seabirds nesting on the cliffs. Afterward, we returned to the boat, keen to get a few more hours of cruising before sunset.
Leaving Lödingen for the crossing back to mainland Norway. Photo: Per Harrtoft
By the time we left, the sun had disappeared, and the wind and rain followed. We reached Lödingen in the fog, where we celebrated a foggy Midsummer with schnapps. I took a moment to FaceTime my wife Eva, who was home alone with Covid.
Lödingen to Bodö
The next morning brought clear skies and light winds. After ten days in Lofoten, it was time to say goodbye. As we left the harbour, the snow-capped peaks reflected in the calm water. We cruised at 31 knots toward the mainland, easing down to 26 knots as the waves built.
The summer heat had finally arrived and we had to dig out our shorts. Photo: Per Harrtoft
Three-and-a-half hours later, we arrived in Bodö. Much to our delight, summer had arrived, and we dug out our shorts. The harbour was lively, and we secured a berth near the square. Although the tour boats to Saltstraumen were fully booked, some friendly Norwegians invited us to join them for rum and shrimp, teaching us about the local waters and whirlpools.
We ended the evening on the flybridge, enjoying chilled wine and watching the square come alive below.
Hiking to the mouth of the glacier. Photo: Per Harrtoft
Bodö to Sandnessjöen
The next day, we set off under clear skies towards Saltstraumen, navigating the world’s strongest tidal current. The whirlpools were calm today, but we still felt the power of the swirling waters as we pushed through. Once clear, we continued through calm straits, cruising at 35 knots towards the Svartisen glacier.
As we entered Holandsfjorden, the still water mirrored the surrounding mountains. We moored at the floating dock, had lunch, then cycled along the fjord before hiking up to Engebreevatnet, a small lake. From a rocky ledge, we gazed at the glacier, hearing it groan as it crept towards the sea.
Glacier hiking proves tp be thirsty work. Photo: Per Harrtoft
After a refreshing dip in the fjord’s cold water, we cruised south, passing the Arctic Circle monument. We reached Sandnessjöen at 8:30pm and discovered our septic tank was full, but we made do for the night.
After dinner, we toasted with gin and tonic, using ice from the glacier.
Holandsfjorden leading to the mighty Svartisen glacier. Photo: Per Harrtoft
Sandnessjöen to Trondheim
A bit slow to start after a late night, we set off south under light winds, cruising at 35 knots. We stopped for lunch at the picturesque harbour of Abelvaer and continued, switching drivers every hour.
Later, we fueled up at Faeringen and spotted the royal yacht Norge as we entered Trondheimsfjord. We pulled into Skansen’s Guest Harbor just as the rain began pouring down. After covering 220nm, we were now closer to Bergen, where Jörgen would sign off. Tomorrow, we’d explore Trondheim and get the septic tank emptied.
This is the third part of Per Harrtift’s adventure, see the Part 1 and Part 2.
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